Strength training for climbing reddit. Here's how climbers should do it.
Strength training for climbing reddit. What benefits do you see in such training? Is it a good option to give tendons, joints, or muscles some rest? Typically, 2x a week strength training is good enough for climbing, as most of your energy should still be going toward climbing. While learning those skills, get out and just start moving. How do I schedule strength training around climbing? I want to get stronger with weight training and also want to start pushing grades. Also notice how the excersises work the antagonistic (opposing) muscles in your hands and forearms, this helps to prevent repetitive strain injuries. Reply reply slainthorny • Reddit's rock climbing training community. 10 votes, 43 comments. However, hangboarding is a pretty effective way to train power-endurance and endurance of your upper body. 11 TR and 5. How forearm training improves our climbing? I'll start that by forearm training I don't mean any types of static hangs/holds but rather exercises like dumbbell (wrist) curls , reverse curls, wrist rotation etc. Dedicated to increasing all our knowledge about how to better improve at our sport. Try to find someone to coach you a bit, give you technique advice and critique your technique while climbing. In climbing, the fingers remain relatively static after grabbing a hold, so it’s best to train finger strength in the most common positions: Feb 15, 2024 · Arm-Lifting is a recent trend in finger strength training. I think either or, you probably couldn't go wrong and at that point it may be more of how your body responds or what you think is suitable. What mix of strength, endurance, and tactics have you found to help you stay out on the rock for long days? I assume this problem is fairly common, but haven’t found many posts describing it. (Hooper's Beta YT channel has a lot of great info on strength training for climbing) Feb 8, 2022 · Complete beginner's guide to bouldering training. If you have access to a gym, dumbbells or more you're golden, you can easily throw in more exercises tailored to climbing like rows, benchpress, leg curls, shoulder press, facepulls, etc. Personally I’m an ultra runner, alpine soloist and do a lot of bouldering. Would you do this on 1-2 rest days per week, on training days immediateley after training, on training days 6+ hours after training, or cut it out all together? More generally, it seems pretty agreed upon that climbing specific strength/power training is #1 (other than time on rock). Hike local mountains, head to local climbing gym and start meeting people. Lately wrist training for slopers and compression have become all the rage. If your goal is to climb harder, strength training for pull ups can be extremely effective, see point three though. Reddit's rock climbing training community. Also, pinch strength is quite width-specific, so I'd have to train multiple different widths to get better at all of them. Also, it allows newer climbers to improve their finger strength faster while still primarily These go in 4 week cycles with my climbing training focus on strength / power and endurance respectively. How do I actually train for climbing? Especially now that im stuck home for quarantine. Of course holding a tough crimp requires a lot of forearm activation but more likely you are more limited by what your fingers can support. So yes, rock climbing is good. Finger strength training is not recommended without climbing 2x or more a week for a year due to the historical use of hangboards at body weight load. Plus, the recovery time is lower, so it impacts your climbing less and it has other huge health benefits. While it has been useful to incorporate some finger and grip strength training, I think that spending more time working on technique drills, such as developing footwork, would be best for me right now. He can have his own reasons for asking the question the way he did, and they can even be very good ones, but that's just the reality of the situation. Again, all about the volume-intensity balance. My goal is to climb to 4x a week and starting to get comfortable around 5. I still prefer before session finger strength training as opposed to after. Day-to-day lifting doesn't impact my climbing performance much, but I can lessen the amount of training volume (and/or intensity) I do over a couple months to peak my strength for climbing. . Just go climb a lot, focus on improving your technique. For climbing, "core" strength essentially means a stiff torso, to connect limbs to each other. I specialize in programming strength plans for ultra runners, alpine climbers and indoor climbers. I’m able to do 1 OAP when fresh, but want to do more for reps. I'd like to create a compendium of Strength training for mountaineering & alpine adventuring Hey friends, I am a sports performance coach (17 years of experience) and an ultra runner/solo climber and general alpine adventure guy living in Washington state. Strength, and muscle mass, also helps coming back from injuries when you do get injured. By and large the my experience is the PT student here: a big reason is training strength vs endurance. MembersOnline • jung_and_dumb ADMIN MOD Additional strength training, especially for your fingers, isn’t recommended until you have at least a year of regular climbing. If you want to get into climbing/mountaineering get the book Freedom of the Hills and start practicing skills. You don’t need a climbing gym, as all exercise variations can be done with regular free weights and your body weight. -4x4 training -flash training/world cup mock (4 mins to send) -pause climbing (reach and hover your hand over the next hold before grabbing it) -up and down (climb up and down the same boulder) I’ve been climbing 2 years and recently started a training plan through the Power company which is climbing 2-3x a week plus a strength training day. Over time, this is a good thing. My recollection of the original Horst periodization in Training for climbing included 5 days per week in the ARC and endurance training portions, and dropping to 3 days per week when strength training. For the past year to train back and bicep strength, I would do weighted pull ups as my only body weight exercise, then do training with pendlay row, lat pull down, and horizontal cable rows. r/griptraining is a super knowledgable community and has a section in the sidebar specifically addressing grip training for climbing. Here's how climbers should do it. However, ring work in addition to training open hand on a hang board can do the same thing if you don't have access to a gym that sets slopers well. The main issue with "core" training is that people interpret core to be abs, which is incorrect. It's not worth taking so much time/effort away from other climbing/training. r/climbharder climb harder - ideas and structured training to get better at climbing Reddit's rock climbing training community. I’ve been climbing for about a month now, and I want do everything in my power to get better. Once you get to an advanced level (projecting 5. The big thing here is that a lot of strength training exercises are compound exercises, which will use a lot of different muscles at the same time. A lot of trainers suggest strength training for climbing in the context of being more resilient to injury and generally athletic, rather than thinking about it for direct gains on the wall. Finger strength in climbing is often less about grip strength and more about how much force your pulleys and tendons can handle. How do you train specifically for sloper holds? I'm climbing in the 11a range but when it comes to big slopes I can't do much. So I've been climbing for about 8 months now and I climb around V4/V5 but I've never actually had proper training or anything aside from watching a couple videos when I first started. I don't bother training pinches at all, because I don't encounter them often climbing around here. I get pooped out super quick. Because sloper strength is so complex- compared to crimp strength at least- I personally just like climbing a lot of sloper climbs to improve. Hammer curls: stealing from Drew on Reddit's rock climbing training community. Check it out! So maybe you do an easy climbing session & end it with strength training. What is an efficient way to train finger strength for a climbing beginner who has a decent amount of pulling strength from Callisthenics (1. r/climbharder: Reddit's rock climbing training community. Apr 25, 2019 · Antagonist training—working the muscles that oppose your typical climbing muscles—will reduce the risk of injury and increase climbing performance. Sep 30, 2022 · Maximum strength training teaches your body to do more with what it already has. It takes 2 or 3 months of climbing before your ligaments start to strengthen at all. Aug 20, 2021 · Angie Payne, three-time national bouldering champion and first woman to climb V13, teaches us how we can level up our bouldering game. i will do strength training 3 days a week and on and weeks i'm going 4 days that extra day will be dedicated only for climbing and improving my technique my main question here is about my strength training program, do you guys think its enough? have any suggestion for another program maybe? strength training tips specific for climbing? - Even if your grip strength is absolutely terrible, static hangs aren't the ideal exercise right now (until you're really working on problems at the gym that require grip strength, avoid hang boards all together). We would like to show you a description here but the site won’t allow us. Also I really like the advice given in this subreddit :) I have started rock climbing, and so far I have been climbing once a week and doing BW strength training twice a week. 62x BW 1rm chinup and working on OAC) ? The crux of the "climbing as primarily a strength sport" idea is that most people can acquire the climbing skill over enough time to climb hard (lets say V-double digit) but many fewer people will be able to build that appropriate amount of elite finger and hand strength. Typically a warm up followed by limit bouldering on climbs featuring crimps, wall angle varies. Dedicated to increasing all our… 14 votes, 14 comments. It drove me nuts too when I first started, but for now, your best idea is just to climb more. Initially, it was used for pinch blocks to isolate the thumb more effectively, but soon, climbers realized they could also use this approach for regular edges to spice up their finger strength training! The best climbing coaches and athletes, including Lattice Training, Tyler Nelson, and Yves Gravelle, use this state-of-the-art 11 votes, 26 comments. Here are some of the best workouts for climbers and boulderers. I believe having greater awareness has helped me apply my strength gains more easily. How to implement a simple strength training regimen Choose a handful of exercises and use them for a handful of months. However, there are great forearm exercise that you can do that are low impact and great for endurance training. It’s not about arm strength, it’s about general fitness. Obviously, early on you want to take it easy because you haven't built up the foundation strength, but even pros hurt tendons. MembersOnline • Nandor1262 ADMIN MOD Is rock climbing an effective form of calisthenics? If so, how can it be regulated to be most beneficial? : r/bodyweightfitness Go to bodyweightfitness r/bodyweightfitness r/bodyweightfitness Reddit's rock climbing training community. Will rock climbing instead of gym grip exercises produce similar results for general gripping strength and endurance? We would like to show you a description here but the site won’t allow us. I've gone back and forth on this, but I think before is a bit better so you're fresher if finger strength is the priority for weaknesses. Oct 18, 2024 · Strength Training Program for Climbers This is a strength training program for intermediate-level climbers who want to get stronger to help improve climbing performance. Jun 27, 2022 · Climbing requires good cardio, strength, and endurance. Training finger strength, weighted pull ups, shoulder stability/strength, and flexibility all helped me improve. In fact, I did a project on it in an undergraduate psychology class. I’ve found that my biggest weakness right now is my forearm strength. Either that, or what I do (when I have the option to do so in my current frustratingly scheduled work-life balance) is train finger strength in the morning/noon before a climbing session in the afternoon/evening. In general, I think training box jumps (single and double-leg) carries over well for climbing, since a lot of routes and problems can have dynos. Eventually over time the tendon strength will build to a level where it’s safe to use hang boards to improve finger strength. Generally, do lifting after (as climbing is the skill training before workouts) and you can modify it depending on how much fatigue was from your sessions. climb harder - ideas and structured training to get better at climbing Reddit's rock climbing training community. The thing is most alpinism fitness training programs I’ve looked into require around 3-4 days/week of cardio and strength training, each session being several hours long. I think this is likely true from a statistical sense. For crimps I worked on finger strength, for slopes should I practice palming basketballs? But as you gain technical skill and experience from years of climbing, I think physical strength (usually in the fingers) becomes a limiting factor. Overall, this training plan seems like way too much volume. 173K subscribers in the climbharder community. Just pull hard on edges and gain some strength and comfort before tackling a more demanding program. You won't progress at any respectable speed only putting a single day a week into climbing. Start with these 8 movements here. For super hard sport climbing, sometimes calf training is also key (ie Ondra had to focus on his calf strength when he trained for Silence). Functional training for climbing will look much different than than powerlifting and bodybuilding, two of the biggest influences in the US culture of exercise, particularly strength training. Is there any research if such type of training translates to improved grip or fingers strength? Have any of you found this exercises Well I wasn't really asking specifically about me in this thread, more whether people think rowing strength is often underrepresented in strength training for climbing in general. Apr 25, 2023 · You are passionate about climbing and dream of sending yet more powerful sport climbs or boulders, but despite your dedicated climbing practice, supplemented by strength training in the gym, you seem to have reached a plateau. You want to spend every ounce of your training capacity climbing, which will improve your grip strength, but also your movement vocabulary and general technique. My main tokens for the debate on what seem most useful: Weighted pullups: use a lot of the upper body muscle groups, seem pretty effective but less so at any locking positional type of climbing specific movements. Since bouldering is quite expensive, I can only afford to the climbing gym I'd say training on wall is much more fun and pays off better at first. I train following the book training for the new alpinism it's might be overkill for just climbing but it's whipped me into shape helping me build upper body endurance. 12s?), you might consider talking to a climbing coach if you want to up your grade and incorporate things like fingerboarding and ARC training and advance training techniques like This will increase fore arm strength and wrist stability. Lifting will fatigue your body, which impacts climbing in some way. This is the single most important aspect for a beginning climber. Apart from these podcasts there doesn't seem to be a great deal of information on wrist training. Your fingers are all tendons and it takes a long time to build tendon strength, so the advice I got was to keep climbing but once they hurt, stop climbing crimpy routes for the day. I've noticed a curious suggestion for isometric exercise: The following guidelines govern isometric training protocol: Intensity—maximal effort Effort duration—5 to 6 s Rest intervals—approximately 1 min if only small muscle groups, such as calf Reddit's rock climbing training community. This complete eight-phase training series will coach you through specific workouts based on periodization, a proven approach to training that results in peak climbing performance on the rock and in the gym. Climbing uses more core muscles than anything else. They focus on strength and the psychology of climbing, and are really focused on science-grounded training with on-and off wall training from everything from weight lifting, diet, climbing drills, and stretching! Dec 12, 2023 · USA Climbing's Zack DiCristino offers insight about getting started with a proper strength training program. If the climbing is more important for the while the climbing first can work better though. Learn about gear, nutrition, hangboarding, on-the-wall workouts, and more! I ran Even Easier Strength for roughly 6 weeks now, hit some lifetime PRs in deficit deadlift and overhead press and didn't feel it negatively affected my climbing at all. g. I am thinking about maybe exchanging one of the strength training days with an additional climbing day (I do not have time to work out more than 3 times a week). If you can't get to the climbing wall/crag often enough, you could do some hangboarding, but only if access to climbing is what limits the amount of training you can do. I’m a newbie climber. Getting pumped and gaining muscle mass for aesthetics and training for functional strength in climbing to perform are 2 complete different things. Other users comment on the pros and cons of this approach, and offer their own opinions and advice. Primarily trained in four directions (forward, reverse, pronation, and supination), sledge levering is the ultimate exercise for wrist strength and size. As much as people hate to hear it, when it comes to grip strength in the early years of climbing, climbing is the best training for climbing. In it they discuss how training their wrists has increased their sloper strength dramatically. My advice is: please don't. 11-5. 2x a week core + strength workouts where I focus on legs and pull up strength (weighted pull ups for sets of 1-3 max) followed by 20-40 minutes of cardio 39 votes, 49 comments. Thus, either way if you did rock climbing (e. Dedicated to increasing all our… /r/GripTraining is a resource for anyone wanting stronger hands, bigger forearms, or to compete in the sport of grip. It's very complex. Use our weekly Q&A posts for your questions, routines, exercises, reviews of equipment you use, grip accomplishments, technique/training tips, grip sport news, grip Reddit's rock climbing training community. You get the point. I feel like past… IMO, any climbing cross training should feature endurance work as much as strength work. Your grip strength is determined by forearm strength and the tendons in your fingers, hands and wrists. And always work on your technique (especially footwork!). I started climbing sporadically about a year ago, and last month I started hitting the climbing gym and crags more regularly. sport specific skills), you should still have to do strength and conditioning to make good progress with your ability to perform at rock climbing AND get good strength and muscle definition. In short, strength is great for upper body in climbing because regularly you're performing repeated concentric contractions, sometimes very powerfully, so training concentric strength for the upper extremities is important. Prior to this plan I was doing a full body weight lifting program (Jeff Nippard Fudnamentals) 3x a week. My long term objectives are mountaineering and alpine climbing? Currently, I do LSD ( long slow days) 2x a week, 3x a Limit bouldering builds top end strength, these sub-max days (on still hard boulders) builds overall climbing strength. In the end, the best way to train climbing movements is climbing and climbing, and there aren't any shortcuts for that. I'm looking for some advice and discussion on significantly increasing grip strength for rock climbing. Those who do combine the sports, how do you segment your training throughout the week? Reddit's rock climbing training community. A single sledgehammer can give you a multitude of resistance levels just by adjusting where you grab on the handle (add tick marks for reference). Having a good muscle and strength base allows you to handle harder sport-specific training as well, when you don't need to go as close to your limits in the sport specific movements. Unlike rope climbing, I noticed is much more dynamic and powerful. Adding this routine on top of your existing climbing is a reasonable increase in training volume, as opposed to a huge jump that'll lead to injury. Useful in sports like climbing and martial arts, grip training will carry over to many aspects of every day life. This usually means that your core is triggered as well, which is very helpful in training for climbing. If you learn correct technique right Reddit's rock climbing training community. When I was climbing around v8-9, these extra sessions really helped my become a better climber along with building strength. Of course training specific things helps a lot too. Is it specifically to improve your climbing, to get strong, to look good? If you are just starting out I'd recommend doing a full body workout like Stronglifts, you do two alternating workouts, Squats, Bench, Rows and then Squats, Overhead press, deadlifts. Assuming your primary goal is to improve climbing, I’d try schedule climbing days after rest days or easy cardio sessions. Has anyone felt like the grip trainers are fun but don't carry over to real world grip strength? Reddit's rock climbing training community. Or maybe you do outright cut out a climbing session and replace it with strength training. 306 votes, 150 comments. I've been reading Science and Practice of Strength Training just to get a better base of understanding of the fundamentals of strength training. Fingers/strength - Focus on climbing on small, crimpy holds, followed by max hangs when I get home. Welcome to Climbing’s yearlong Training Bible. All important elements to compliment climbing specific training and become a stronger climber. (Part 1) We would like to show you a description here but the site won’t allow us. Stay away from r/fitness, they suffer from bigtime groupthink. Mar 15, 2016 · Adding strength training into a climber’s routine will help prevent imbalances, create powerful/flexible hips, and improve grip/finger strength. You wanna look like Schwarzenegger, climbing is NOT the sport for you. I say this because the higher you go in grades, the more specific technique/strength, and thus your training, need to be. At his level, climbing is the only relevant method of training. A user shares their experience of combining Wendler's 5/3/1 program with climbing sessions. Otherwise, currently I tend to do pinch training on a non-climbing evening followed by some basic dumbbell work. Remember, your chosen exercises don’t have to look like rock climbing. However, I’m already doing 3 multi hour sessions of indoor climbing + 1 day of outside sport climbing a week. Jan 25, 2022 · Download the app. Pushups, Obliques, Pullups, (also Chinups), Squats, Light cardio. To me a basic non-sport strength/power training program for climbing should try to do a few basic things: strengthen our trunk, particularly in positions where we have to express flexibility in our hips. Often climbers will have strong abs, but a weak core, because they're missing some other piece, like scapular retraction/stability or glutes/hamstring. It really depends on what you want to gain from lifting. Sorry for the wall of /r/GripTraining is a resource for anyone wanting stronger hands, bigger forearms, or to compete in the sport of grip. May 8, 2023 · In Part II, I provide a simple strength training protocol, with variations. Incorporating strength training as a fairly "weak" climber Hi! I’d love some advice on how to best incorporate strength training for a climber that is pretty physically weak for the grade (or if I should just forget it and go back to “just climbing”). For this I wanted to first do a max strength testing session via the crimpd app. Apr 10, 2024 · Free climbing training programs available for download as a supplement to the book Training For Climbing by Eric Horst. I personally don't do heavy pull ups more than twice a week (at least 2 days off from pull ups between sessions). Should I be strength training while also climbing. Focus on lifting correctly rather than lifting heavy and progress with the weight. Do you have some tips and/or recommendations for pinch strength training? As I am into bouldering, I thought about training max strength. Grip training when you've only been climbing for a week is like putting race tires on a VW bus. I’d drop it down to two weight training days (running either full body or an upper/lower split) and maybe a light cardio day. Mostly opening this up as a discussion for what people believe has advanced their climbing the most in terms of the off-wall climbing elements. Im a little disappointed with my actual grip strength after today's battle ropes workout. After that I wanted to have like maybe two pinch "sessions" a week. I think this is mainly sparked by two podcast guests: Yves Gravelle and Dan Varian. Second the pinch training at the start of a session. TL;DR: Do any of you train climbing, long distance running, and weightlifting simultaneously? I have found many resources for training both distance running and weightlifting, but not many for training both with climbing. How should I structure my schedule to train weights without being too fatigued for climbing and vice versa? Power/grip strength? Boulder. 10 leading. I think based on my current level that spending more time climbing and reducing the training time slightly would be more beneficial. 174K subscribers in the climbharder community. Unfortunately, the only advice I’ve found is that to build this, you have to continue climbing. But increased strength on its own did not equal increased grades for me. Mar 26, 2025 · Training strength usually requires isotonic exercises like pull-ups that involve moving the joint through its range of motion, so muscles get stronger at every angle. There is *some* overlap between grip training and finger training (climbing-specific) but, if you're looking to improve your ability to pull down on small holds, spring loaded grip training tools are likely a waste of your time/capacity to recover. idasmayigvqieshrwwtzsivdwkfyvsrnpbumhjpmwiptbbodhej
