How to build finger strength for climbing reddit. g. The thing is, fingertip pushups work your finger strength for, well, pushing, while the finger strength you use for climbing is pulling finger strength, so I wouldn’t recommend fingertip push-ups for climbing finger strength I've been doing a lot of research on finger strength training, and I've come up with a plan to help me reach my goals. Apr 9, 2018 · Todd credits these finger rolls for some of his most significant gains in finger strength, since he first picked up on this exercise from Eastern Bloc climbers he meet on the World Cup circuit in 1987. So I've been climbing for about 1 year, 9 months and recently have tried lattice finger strength testing on their 20mm fingerboard to find my 1RM. You can learn a lot about your actual pull up strength and finger strength by combining the two exercises. 7 pounds) with two arms. Mar 1, 2022 · Download the app. You’ll need to practise with it. Lattice Training recently released a new video on their Ultimate Guide to Climbing Skin Care. Home Finger Strength for Climbers with Minimal Equipment Power Company Climbing 8. Also notice how the excersises work the antagonistic (opposing) muscles in your hands and forearms, this helps to prevent repetitive strain injuries. It takes between 1 and 2 years to build enough finger strength to not injure them while climbing a lot and hard. Dec 23, 2024 · For experienced climbers (those with two or more years of consistent climbing), there are countless finger board programs to build finger strength but I recommend against them for new climbers as the tendons aren’t strong enough to support prolonged hanging off of your fingertips. What would you consider the most important of them to train (if you had to only pick one due to time constraints) in order to move forward? Looking for some advice. I recently started finger rolls as a rehab exercise and specifically started more isolated forearm exercises like wrist curls in order to address some weakness in open hand strength on slopers and compression climbing. Raised-Leg Diamond Pushups These hit core, shoulders, triceps, chest, and back. 11- sport climbing level in Colorado. I'm focusing on exercises that target my finger flexor muscles, such as hangboarding, campus board training, and finger rolls. reasons. Im a little disappointed with my actual grip strength after today's battle ropes workout. A coach prescribing proper load could easily and effectively build finger strength in a 3 month new climber (even if that’s not wheeler time is best spent). You strengthen your finger flexors when you climb, so when you’re not climbing, work on your extensors. Mar 25, 2022 · Hypergravity Isolation Training (H. Building finger strength? I would like to build my finger strength a bit more, I have been using my beastmaker 1000 and it has been working well, although I am looking for anything else I could be doing. Finger Planks Hold a high plank (or raised pushup position) using your fingers to hold you as high as possible. Calisthenics, which are exercises using your own body weight, can help you build the muscles and endurance needed for rock climbing. In this Reddit's rock climbing training community. If you rarely full crimp, once a move requires that grip type you're at a high injury risk because your body isn't used to it. If you tear one you're pretty fucked. I have incredibly weak fingers that I’m looking to strengthen. If you really want to see progress on the fingerboard, maybe some weeks of light training with it will make you able to hang with more weight. In the climbing community better climbers are talking to newbie climbers to focus on technique first and then on finger strength. It is possible to train crushing grip statically , I don’t believe it to be overly affective , but either a thick candle or if you can sacrifice melt a candle into a wax ball . A lot of people are not really sure if they should do some dedicated finger strength training, and I’ve been in the same situation. 5 pounds) with a body weight of 67kg (147. Although forearm strength is greater in lead climbers than non-climbers, boulderers display greater finger-flexor maximal strength and rate of force development (RFD) when compared to lead climbers 2. The right finger warmup can help coax it out. 10a-5. I don’t want to hangboard yet (climbing for only 1 year now) but I want to know if there are any other safe drills y’all use to speed up tendon What would you recommend on the hangboard to build finger strength while avoiding finger injuries assuming one climbs 3x/week? Usually if you're climbing 3x a week to past peak performance you don't need hangboard as you're getting enough stimulus for the fingers. My guess is that a 2-3 rep max weight strict pull up on a 20mm edge is probably the best predictor for overall climbing performance. What are some good ways to build/maintain the relevant muscles without actually going climbing? Jul 8, 2024 · In order to increase your stats, you should include a rock climbing grip training routine that puts emphasis on grip and finger strength. Power exercises next (when in the power phase) – e. Your tendons get stronger way slower than your muscles and especially using those hand grip trainers (captains of crush, etc) is too risky to be justified. ex shoulder stability or just technique under the fingerboard. And yes, you should do strength and conditioning exercises that don't entail actually climbing as well, which may include hangboarding, campusing, shoulder mobility/strengthening, core exercises, etc. In the end, I decided to postpone dedicated fingerboard training for a while, but I also think it’s a good idea … When Should I Start With Fingerboard Training or Hangboard Training Pull ups on small edges are an awesome exercise that is super underrated. which is +37. Finger strength training consists of a lot of glides, movement based exercises, and functional training like climbing and hangboarding. You almost certainly have a lot of technique, footwork, movement that will improve with climbing and it’s not solely finger strength holding you back. Dial the proportions of time spent training one vs the other according to what your strengths/weaknesses vs goals are. Dec 12, 2023 · The exception to this rule may be finger-strength training for those who it is a priority. The muscles which bend the finger joints are located in the palm and up in the mid forearm, and are connected to the finger bones by tendons, which pull on and move the fingers like the strings of a marionette. By incorporating a combination of fingerboard exercises, weight training, bodyweight movements, and proper recovery, you can develop the finger strength needed to improve your climbing performance. "The fingers are special, because there are no muscles inside the fingers. Hand grippers do not build tendon strength or neurological at all. The crux of the "climbing as primarily a strength sport" idea is that most people can acquire the climbing skill over enough time to climb hard (lets say V-double digit) but many fewer people will be able to build that appropriate amount of elite finger and hand strength. I typically use a hang gripper for thumb strength (pinches) and for warm up. Oct 7, 2024 · The strength you’ve worked so hard to build is still there; it’s just burrowed under a few layers of stress. But you don’t need fancy gym equipment or heavy weights to get there. Apr 27, 2025 · This makes training finger strength in your fingers completely different than other parts of your body. Jan 5, 2023 · You’ve likely heard that fingerboard training is good for advanced climbers and dangerous for beginners. Finger Stretches Finger-specific stretching increases circulation so that they’re better prepared to work at a higher intensity. I know that building finger strength takes time and patience, but I'm willing to put in the work. How to know when finger strength is holding us back? Share Add a Comment Sort by: Best Open comment sort options came_to_post_this • Why this protocol? Because it’s very time-effective and backed by science to maximize finger strength. Climb V3-V5 indoors (V4-V5 on Vert/Slab/sloper/burley climbs or basically anything that doesn’t require true finger strength, V3 on any significant incline/overhang). As much as people hate to hear it, when it comes to grip strength in the early years of climbing, climbing is the best training for climbing. Here are some of the easiest and most basic finger strengthening exercises. Mar 26, 2025 · Every climber wants stronger fingers, but few really know how to power up. Also saw Eric Hörst has a video on daily exercises for finger health (including finger rolls, finger extensions and easy repeaters). Hard crimp boulders often require pushing down with one hand while pulling with another, or wide outside the shoulder strength, or messed up inside the shoulder crosses. Finger strength is crucial because it enables climbers to hold onto smaller or more difficult holds. plyometrics, explosive campusing Why? And yes, you should do exercises to build strength and conditioning while actually on the wall. Hi/Lo seems like a good recipe for building/maintaining strength and building/maintaining endurance. I just hate weight lifting and The drop in max strength might be because that way of testing finger strength is unusual for you now - f. And I have felt like this since I started climbing but I assumed it would get better as my fingers got used to the stress (It hasn't) Because of this I’m considering adding in hangboarding (Specifically Steve Bechtel's 3-6-9 Ladders) before my bouldering sessions 2x per week to build up my connective tissue and increase my finger resilience. 12a by the end of 2020. I've only been climbing for about a year and am climbing outdoors at a V3 bouldering and 5. Any advice from climbers with a similar story? Oct 27, 2021 · Your fingers are all tendons and it takes a long time to build tendon strength, so the advice I got was to keep climbing but once they hurt, stop climbing crimpy routes for the day. While a few weeks is not long enough to guage it's usefulness personally, I've noticed some more confidence in grip strength. So I'm relatively new to climbing-started a few months ago (female climber 5'4)- top roping at 5. I’ve been climbing 3. ) is the gold standard for building grip strength. Working towards 'finger strength' is a good way to develop tendonitis. I think perhaps I have a fairly strong sporting / weightlifting background prior to climbing, so I had a great baseline of strength/flexibility/tension (+ even pinch grip) coming in - and have overcompensated using these at the expense of developing finger strength. If not all our effort to try and crush the candle for a few seconds at each time. 5kg (82. Has anyone felt like the grip trainers are fun but don't carry over to real world grip strength? Useful in sports like climbing and martial arts, grip training will carry over to many aspects of every day life. I'm a huge proponent of Ned Feehally's approach to finger training and think doing something similar to what he recommends would allow you to return to 4x climbing sessions (maybe with slightly reduced volume to begin) while building both strength and confidence in your fingers. 10c. For these athletes, I recommend doing this before climbing in the offseason to maximize your effort. Tendons don't strengthen that fast. Strength is preventative for injuries. Climbing is so much more about technique than strength. I'm due to go on a climbing holiday in a few months, but will have very few opportunities to go bouldering between now and then. How can I increase my finger and grip strength? Aug 14, 2019 · Siegrist spoke with Climbing to discuss possible injuries to beware of while training finger strength, as well as how to prevent and mitigate these injuries. Eventually over time the tendon strength will build to a level where it’s safe to use hang boards to improve finger strength. We would like to show you a description here but the site won’t allow us. Apparently the 20mm edge size is a good baseline standard for measuring finger strength. A person with v8 finger strength (whatever that means) pulling on v10 crimps is at a higher risk than v10 fingers pulling on the same holds. Many people want to isolate both exercises for misc. I think this is likely true from a statistical sense. 62x BW 1rm chinup and working on OAC) ? This will increase fore arm strength and wrist stability. Finger strength I’ve been indoor climbing about once a week for 5 months now and seem to be struggling a lot with finger strength. Why is Finger Strength Essential for Rock Climbing? Rock climbing demands precise hand placement, balance, and grip strength. And work this throughout the day . Sep 17, 2024 · In this article, we will explore scientifically-backed methods for building finger strength for rock climbing. Here are tips for hangboarding your way to finger strength. You DON'T want to have extremely strong fingers and poor technique, those people always seem to have finger injuries in my experience. Combining a finger program with mental conditioning and movement training can further optimize per Jan 18, 2025 · Building finger strength for rock climbing is a gradual process that requires patience, consistency, and smart training. I've set some lofty goals for myself by the end of the year, which quarantine has made it tough to realistically meet, so I invested in a hangboard. If you’re into climbing, you know how important it is to have a strong body. Grip strength is without a doubt one of the most important aspects of rock climbing. You should take it easy, and don't push it. In this article, I’ll suggest that fingerboard training is the most accessible tool to gain finger strength as a beginner and an intermediate climber; I Climbing finger strength is not the same as hangboard strength. But finger strength is only one of the many variables that allows you to grip bad holds while climbing. " I was wondering if anyone has any exercises or a routine they do daily to aid recovery, prevent injury, keep their body buttery or even build strength. How climbers get STRONG fingers (3 methods) Emil Abrahamsson 255K subscribers Subscribed Nov 9, 2022 · Managing finger strength training as a climber can be confusing, what to do what not to do? In this blog we clear the fog and keep it simple. My goal is to be sport climbing 5. A hang board allows for a well structured workout, practical climbing grips, and allow for more weight. Mar 15, 2012 · Obviously, early on you want to take it easy because you haven't built up the foundation strength, but even pros hurt tendons. com Dec 18, 2020 · There are several exercises and tools that you can use to help make your fingers stronger and more capable of holding onto holds while you’re climbing. Good technique consists of relaxing all the things that might slow down the impulse from the forearms to the fingers, especially the wrist: tension at any point makes the digits slower and less precise. Find a method that emphasizes efficiency and precision over raw force. I've been reading a lot of tips and posts on conditioning and getting stronger while avoiding injuries. Two or three 30-minute workouts per week can deliver excellent results. 74K subscribers 168 17K views 4 years ago Deeper look into finger strength. Again gradually build up to holding your weight . But it's not something you can boost. In my experience testing and tracking professional climbers for many years, I’ve realized that this narrative is unsubstantiated. Jan 18, 2025 · Building finger strength for rock climbing is a gradual process that requires patience, consistency, and smart training. Muscles can be trained and strengthened relatively fast. What is an efficient way to train finger strength for a climbing beginner who has a decent amount of pulling strength from Callisthenics (1. This is why training to strengthen your fingers is crucial if you want to take your climbing skills to Oct 27, 2021 · Your fingers are all tendons and it takes a long time to build tendon strength, so the advice I got was to keep climbing but once they hurt, stop climbing crimpy routes for the day. Reddit's rock climbing training community. 5” tall, and currently weigh 195lbs. In the end, I decided to postpone dedicated fingerboard training for a while, but I also think it’s a good idea … When Should I Start With Fingerboard Training or Hangboard Training Do not train your finger strength more than what you already do by climbing, at least for a first year or two. Feb 24, 2023 · Finger strength, though critical to climbing performance, is just one component to climbing hard. I figured this would also serve as a good resource for those searching the sub for tips on managing their skin in the future, as it Calisthenics and strength training are like secret weapons for rock climbers and campus board climbers. As this is 100% right i have focused on improving technique in the past year and made a lot of gains there but here comes the question. I’ve started doing light finger rolls everyday along with Emil Abrahamson’s sub-max hangboard routine. Not to be confused with the “HIT” workouts performed by bodybuilders, this highly specific grip-training method involves weighted climbing up, and down, a 45-degree wall using identical finger holds, spaced approximately 18 inches apart, for an entire set. This is why training to strengthen your fingers is crucial if you want to take your climbing skills to I've been gym climbing fairly regularly for about a year now, and I find that I still lack a lot of strength when it comes to gripping smaller holds. Hangboard training is one of the most time-efficient ways to build hand and finger (or “contact”) strength, especially if you can’t train at a climbing gym. Regular training is important when training for bouldering or climbing. In the beginning, finger strength will come just from climbing, along with the added benefit of technique. T. I was just wondering thoughts on building strength while climbing easier routes faster and more often rather than weight lifting to get my strength up. I have the luxury of being able to workout at work and have been working out consistently for the last 3-4 months but really seem to struggle with my finger strength. There’s plenty of finger extensor trainers available for cheap. If your gym offers adult improver classes jump on them as working with someone will be a massive help. See full list on climbing. Are finger rolls actually training finger tendon strength or just grip strength? I’m not an expert and I’m not trying to be a dick but that exercise looks more like it trains forearm strength than it would finger strength for climbing specific movement (holding onto smaller edges for longer). Use our weekly Q&A posts for your questions, routines, exercises, reviews of equipment you use, grip accomplishments, technique/training tips, grip sport news, grip videos/articles, etc. For example, if you are really weak in fingers and stuck on a crux move when fresh, then more endurance won't really help. All you need is a hangboard—many models are available for about $50—and a little motivation. What injuries to the hands and fingers have you typically seen when training finger strength? The main things to watch for are finger and wrist injuries from overuse. Rest on a hangboard: this is COMPLETELY based on the goals of the workout. I use both, but as for finger strength, all my gains have been from hang board sessions. Climbing is a mental and technical skill sport that requires regular practice and devotion, and paying attention to your finger strength is crucial if you want to climb safely. Avoid the finger strength training for now, injuries are your worst nightmare and will set you back more than anything. Hangboarding does not account for any of this . These first years are good to practice technique, improve general body strength and your mind while leading, but I'd avoid doing a lot of fingerboard training or too many crimpy routes. Mar 10, 2023 · For most climbers, certainly the trained ones, finger training has tended to mean doing weighted hangs on a 20mm edge for either 7 or 10 seconds. Dec 18, 2020 · Grip strength is one of the most critical aspects that differentiates a mediocre climber from an experienced one. There are times I’m working on max strength where I’m taking lots of rest. Every video I've watched on finger strength assessment has subjects hanging on 20mm edges with various amounts of added weight or lengths of time. Isolating is I have been climbing for about 2 years now, and my answer would definitely be YES, you can strengthen your fingers. This will really build finger strength and core, as you should be fighting to stay afloat. Any help would be appreciated! If you are moderately new to climbing and your finger-, pull- and body strengths are equally good or bad. Climbing is a very technical sport, There best thing you can do to improve is climb a lot and try and focus on using the best technique possible, and you will end up building strength quite quickly through that anyway. Your grip strength is determined by forearm strength and the tendons in your fingers, hands and wrists. I was rather surprised, and somewhat dismayed, to find that my fingers are apparently incredibly weak. Nov 24, 2023 · Try to touch the ground at each turnaround. Just be patient, keep climbing and you will get stronger. Dedicated to increasing all our knowledge about how to better improve at our sport. From experience, improving finger strength alone won’t be enough to get your pinky working how you want it to. Hangboarding only trains force in one direction, while climbing require three dimensional strength, even on crimps. Nov 21, 2022 · Learn four essential fingerboard training protocols to improve your climbing capacity, endurance, and strength-to-weight ratio. How long did it take you guys to develop finger strength to start pushing V4/5 boulders? I find that that’s my biggest roadblock with anything above a V3– my body’s strength is catching up to me but my finger strength is holding me back. I. While my friends have opportunities to build up to it, I'm concerned that I'll turn up and be unable to make the most of the holiday. Is there anything I can do to build that particular area, or is it best to just keep trying to do those routes? I need to work on finger strength more and i was going to try out going to do finger curls at is it an effective method to build finger strength? Feb 25, 2025 · Boost your climbing performance! Learn how to improve grip strength for rock climbing with the best exercises, tips, and training techniques. But most finger strength training research uses 22-25mm edges, and these edge depths, especially the 25mm, make more sense for recruitment than smaller edges. 5 years, am 5’ 8. I like having things written down, so I made notes of the relevant information from the video (and some of the comments made by others) and thought I'd share it here. Apr 25, 2023 · It has been shown that forearm strength and power are important to bouldering performance 1. Hangboarding is also the safest way to build hand strength because you can train progressively and measurably, starting with lighter weights and gradually building a base of strength over weeks/months. But for general finger strength training, I would recommend spending a couple extra bucks and grabbing yourself a planet waves varigrip or something similar - it’s especially useful during those initial few months. wzmkb zhfmfe fhar qftr cuaqycyz kunoy noycv yccwdt yymdbd ufmi

How to build finger strength for climbing reddit. Here are tips for hangboarding your way to finger strength.