How to place trad gear. Here’s how you use alpine draws and slings. It opens you up to hundreds of thousands of unbolted routes–including some of the best climbing in the world (El Cap anyone?). Guidebooks will often tell you what kind of gear you should carry on any given climb; this is ca To practice gear placements for trad lead climbing, stand back from the cliff and choose three places where you think you can place gear. You can see your feet more easily, your gear will generally keep out of the way of your climbing movement, and small items of Instructing, Coaching, Guiding and Approved Mountain Training Course Provider. e. JB Mountain Skills 32. Remember to check out our selection This process helps build your confidence as a trad leader because it sharpens the skill of identifying potential gear placements in the wall, pulling the correct-sized piece of your harness on the first try, plugging it into the wall, Looking to get into trad climbing? To get started, you’ll need to learn the Tools of the Trad, what kit you need, and how to use it. This article explains all. 8K subscribers Subscribe How to place trad climbing gear Altus Mountain Guides 3. What gear should I start with trad climbing? Start small: Most climbers will rack the smallest gear toward the front of the gear sling or harness and work back with larger pieces. In five minutes, most people can learn the fundamental concepts of leading a sport climb in an indoor climbing gym. Learn how to place gear on traditionally protected rock climbs with an emphasis on safety. Play safe folks! Trad Anchors. tech/p/tools. Passive gear placements? Bomber. To be safe when trad climbing, the leader must focus on finding gear placements and then select the right piece of This e-book will teach you how to: - Place cams, nuts and other trad climbing gear - Build trad anchors - Use different belay methods (including guide mode) - Equalize and extend gear effectively - Understand forces on climbing gear - Trad is rad. Learn how to place climbing cams. I think the best advice I ever heard is focus 100 percent on the placements when your placing, then 100 percent on the Go slow, place lots of gear, climb classics, climb with different partners, try different gear, never get complacent, keep trying to learn. In top-rope you have a pre-built anchor at the top and in sport climbing you clip into pre-existing bolts. We love climbing and mountaineering, it’s our passion, our obsession, our life! It's what we do Enjoy the videos When starting out, you’ll need to learn how to place the different types of gear, where to place gear on a route, and which gear to use in certain situations. This is very much personal preference but most people do seem to follow a few conventions. It’s also mentally engaging, as you must decide where along a route to place certain Trad climbing, also known as traditional climbing or clean climbing, is a method of climbing where climbers use their own belay gear in the form of mobile hangers to secure themselves on the natural features of a rock wall during an ascent. Neil Gresham gives us a masterclass in the basics of placing nuts as Trad climbing protection. Your expert, step-by-step guide to ultimate safety. Make sure the crack narrows or constricts below your placement, and the cable or stem of your gear is pointed I had a request recently for a few tips on how to rack your trad gear on your harness. 6K subscribers Subscribed To help prevent this, set them in place with a hard tug just like you would with a nut. Then extend the placement with a quickdraw or sling instead of using just a single carabiner. When trad climbing, the leader must place their own gear in the rock. This video highlights how to place cams in cracks for trad climbing. How to place cams and nuts / wires so they stick! The video also covers the basics of organising gear on your harness and considerations when placing kit into the rocks. Trad Climbing is by far my favorite climbing discipline. Learn the skills to stay safe and have confidence when climbing. hows. It also shows how to objectively score placements to know if the placement is secure or An overview of things to look for and ways to develop your gear placements for trad rock climbing. Active Mode Tricams work beautifully in horizontal cracks or Climbing slings are simply strongly-sewn loops of nylon or dyneema tape. Took me about three months of trad climbing to fall on my gear. But Lead Climbing: How to Place Trad Gear A climbing anchor is a system made up of individual anchor points that are linked together to create a master point that the rope and/or D ownward pull --> Obviously, your placement has to hold a downward pull. At worst you start climbing and don't place another piece because you think you're safe and get to 10ft thinking your gear is at 7 feet, and you crater. Learning how to place trad gear is an essential skill as you progress as a climber. We’ve put together a quick guide to help you get to grips with the right gear. The climb isn't over when you reach the top; you still need to make an anchor to attach yourself and belay your partner from. This is is for outlining the fundamentals of traditional gear placements, to help people out with examples of good and bad placements with the most common type of trad gear I. Passive pro has no moving parts and depends completely on the shape of the metal to fit the placement. Learn how to identify gear placements, assess their quality, build anchors, and remove gear quickly and efficiently. Putting large gear at the back of your harness and small at the front has several benefits. cams and stoppers The most critical skill to learn in trad climbing is the art of placing gear on lead. How to place and judge trad climbing gear including Nuts, Hexes & Cams. Active pro has moving parts that expand and contract to fit a placement. At best you fall right up on placing and Essential skills needed in trad climbing When honing their craft, new tradsters usually focus on their gear skills, but there’s more to trad climbing than being able to place nuts and cams. Trad climbing (short for “traditional” climbing) is climbing in which you place your own protection pieces as you climb. In this article, I want to talk through a progression of steps catered toward helping you learn to trust your gear placements when dealing with the fear of falling. Walk to the first and try to anticipate what gear will fit before you get there. They are lighter and more compact than large cams but are harder to place, cannot . This article explains how to use slings for protection, how to rack them and more. How to extend trad gear It’s important to extend trad gear to reduce rope drag and prevent the rope from tugging gear out of place. A core piece of gear on any trad rack, Glenmore Lodge instructor Derek shows you how to place nuts and other passive protecti Struggling with trad anchors? Learn Building Bombproof Trad Anchors: Principles of SERENE/ERNEST. 670 likes, 12 comments - listentogroundup on August 5, 2025: "From learning how to place trad gear on YouTube, to becoming the youngest climber to free El Cap in a day - HOW TO PLACE TRAD GEARKnowledgeBase Tools: https://www. Know Where Your Gear Is When you are The Essence of Trad Climbing: Placing Your Own Path Traditional (trad) climbing is a style of rock climbing where the lead climber places all protective gear into natural features Find rock climbing routes, photos, and guides for every state, along with experiences and advice from fellow climbers. In addition to the gear you use in an indoor wall or at a sport crag, you'll need some more specialist kit to climb a trad route. The two basic types of protection are passive and active. htmlDisclaimer : This video how to place trad gear provides Whether you want to fine-tune gear placement, anchors, or crush your first multi-pitch, this comprehensive guide to trad climbing has it all. I love the combination of mental and physical problem solving, and the craft of placing gear and managing your own safety. There are 5 golden rules for placing trad gear and deciding if it's bomber without having to take a nervy fall to find out! Trad Climbing Gear > Big Bros This 'big bros' article is part of the book - Trad Climbing Basics. This article explains the physics of how climbing cams work, and also how to place, remove and rack them. This article teaches you how to place stoppers and cams. Big Bros are expandable tubes which protect wide cracks. As An instructor's complete guide to trad climbing gear — from buying your first trad climbing harness to choosing the best climbing helmet.
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